The Popular, Profitable Art of Hair-Braiding

Hairstyles & Beauty, Braids & Weaves

by Claudette Jones, Jan 6, 2008
A look at the art, history, popularity and entrepreneurial profitability of hair-braiding. How and why an ancient cultural tradition made the transition to contemporary, Hip-Hop, political fashion.

Hair-braiding is an ancient art form and cultural tradition that has been practiced since the earliest recorded history and passed down through the ages. Despite this lengthy history, braided hair is enjoying its greatest popularity ever, right now.
The reasons for the tremendous surge in popularity are as varied as the individuals wearing the colorful style. Braided-hair is unisex, universal and individually unique; and since no two heads are alike, the variety of styles available are limited only by imagination. Braids are an occasional exotic hairstyle for some, a cultural statement for many, and simply an attractive change of pace for others.
The fortunate consequence of this unprecedented popularity among such a large and diverse public has made hair-braiding a relatively new, recently structured, and highly profitable business enterprise.
History of Braiding
Just how far back the art of hair-braiding can be traced may be seen in the clearly visible hair braids in photographs of the mummy Queen Nedjmet (1070-946 B.C.E.). Nedjmet lived and ruled in the ancient African civilization of Kush, now known as the Sudan.
In West Africa, the ancestral homeland of most African-Americans, hair-braiding is a vital aspect of the cultural tradition. Many regions wore distinctive braids as a means of tribal identification.
There were, however various other social and political functions of braids in those societies. Intricate styles were used in ceremonial rituals, such as weddings; but were also cultural and demographic sign posts pointing to different age groups, societal status, or even as designations of royalty.
Aside from Africa, many other countries and cultures have enjoyed a long cultural, political and social association with the art of hair-braiding.
Braids were around during medieval times and were worn as adornments, but were functional, as well; often a means of keeping hair cleaner between baths, keeping it out of cooking fires, and more.
For Native Americans braids were primarily adornments (particularly for women and children), but could also specify religious observances, and when worn by men were used by some tribes as preparation for war.
In nearly every part of the world, from Africa to India, Asia to the U.S., at varying periods of history braids have played some part in the cultural aesthetic.
Why Braids Are So Popular
Today, hair-braids are not only a cultural tradition of people of African descent, but a major component of a pop culture that cuts across racial, economic, social and in many cases, geographic lines.
When worn in Japan braids are referred to as “Hip-Hop” cuts; while in the U.S. the hairstyle is sported by entertainers ranging from country singer, Willie Nelson to Hip-Hop artist Mary J. Blige.
Jackie Joyner Kersee and Kalilah Ali are among the athletics who have run, jumped and boxed their way to fame … many times in braids.
Speaking of politics … the cornrows worn by Congresswoman Cynthia McKinney (D-Georgia), for example, have long since moved braids into the political arena.
It is apparent that braids have penetrated almost every segment of society. But, what is it that makes them so popular? The reasons are simple. Braids are:
Long-lasting
Braids can last several weeks to several months depending on the style and client requirements. The initial time spent styling braids can run from a couple of hours to six- seven hours, however in the long run this can be a good investment in time because the style generally last so long.
Easy Care
Once in place braids are shampoo “n go. Simply shampoo the scalp, rinse, coat braids with recommended oil or moisturizer and that”s it until next shampoo. There is a maintenance requirement recommended for certain braids, but the cost and time involved is minimal.
Versatile
There are numerous styles of braids, such as cornrows, French braids, basket braids, etc. As a hair-style, what really knocks braids out of the box are designer styles. A stylist can look at the shape of the face and/or the head of a client, and custom create a style just for that individual. In that respect braided-hair styles are limitless in their possibilities.
Attractive
Braids are naturally suited to the curly texture of African hair, however anyone can wear braids attractively. Styles such as micro-braids (smaller sections of hair used and smaller braids created), works especially well with fine, long hair; and the good news is … there are multiple variations on the micro style of braids.
Inexpensive
Although the initial cost of getting braids can be expensive because of the time and expertise required, professional upkeep is little to none, therefore in the long run, they can be quite cost effective.
A Political/Cultural Statement
Many African-Americans, and Africans for that matter who wear natural braids (hair not straightened or processed in any way), wear it that way as an expression of who they are naturally … as it relates to their roots, to Africa, to their ancestry.
Now, aside from all the exceedingly possible reasons people wear braids, most probably most wear them simply because … they’re fashionable.
The Profitability of Hair-Braiding
Because of the popularity of braids more people than ever are hair-braiding as a business. What was for centuries a custom passed down through generations from mother to daughter, sister to sister, friend to friend has exploded in the past couple of decades into a new and lucrative industry.
Braiding can be compared to a new industry because there are so many salons devoted to hair-braiding. These salons usually cater to natural hair, however braids are offered as a standard style in most African-American hair salons, as well as many others in the U.S.
There are many destinations outside the U.S. offering hair-braiding, however most people would agree that hands down the most popular of these is the Caribbean. For many vacationers to the Caribbean, a stop at the mostly open-air markets for an exotic braided hairstyle is a part of the itinerary.
From the straw market in Nassau, Bahamas to Vendor’s Market in St. Thomas, Virgin Islands hair-braiders do brisk business all year long.
One of the most popular of the braiders on St. Thomas is Lady Rainbow who works out of Vendor’s Market in Charlotte Amalia, the Capitol of the Virgin Islands.
Lady Rainbow has been delivering the service since 1992, and agrees it is highly profitable and better yet, is still growing.
“Hair-braiding is a wonderful business, and it’s still growing. People of races other than African-American are wearing braids today. It’s a lucrative business. I should know; I raised three children braiding hair,” she said.
When the amount of business being conducted by backyard, kitchen and even salon hair-braiders became apparent, government regulation weren’t far behind.
Cosmetology laws are fairly uniform nationally. Laws that reach back to the 1930’s stipulated that regulation of all hairstyling should come under control of the State Board of Cosmetology. That regulation requires as much as 1,600 hours of cosmetology school, (including learning to give permanents and to color hair); examinations; and obtaining a license.
In 1982, the Attorney General found that hair-braiding should come under those same regulations regardless of the fact that the Cosmetology schools taught everything but hair-braiding, and the examinations did not even include hair-braiding.
What followed were years of aggravation and finally, legal challenges over the absurdity of government regulation of a cultural tradition.
Those challenges over the years have resulted in many states either lessening hair-braiding requirements or abandoning them altogether. The District of Columbia became the first municipality to deregulate hair-braiding as a result of one such lawsuit. Other states have followed, but not all, so it continues to be an issue.
In most cases, hair-braiders still must be licensed, however it is easier for numerous individuals with agile fingers and an entrepreneurial inclination to earn extra income, or a living.

At no time in the long history of hair-braiding has the cultural tradition been more popular, profitable and controversial than it is today.. And, at no time has it been more fashionable for people, both male and female, around the globe to at some point make the decision to wear braids.
Finally, it is interesting to note that at one time, the ancient art of hair-braiding served a much more selfless purpose than as a source of beauty, according to Dr. Marcellus A. Walker. In his book, “Natural Health for African Americans”, he said that herbs were highly valued by Africans because of their medicinal qualities.
“Female African slaves brought herbs to many countries by braiding seeds into the cornrows of their hair,” he wrote.
Inadvertently Walker has added yet another dimension to hair-braiding: there was already ancient art; a source of beauty and fashion; flourishing contemporary enterprise; and now we learn braids served as an underground railroad.
Claudine Jones, Writer
Author

TheBookLady [at] sbcglobal.net

Admin @ April 18, 2008